Feature: Hahndorf’s ‘Hidden History’: The German Artisan Town and the Cultures that Actually Define it
“I wouldn’t have thought Hahndorf’s streets held a hidden history,” I say, standing at the edge of Alec Johnson Park. Hope, a Hahndorf local, giggles lightly, shaking her head at my phrasing. “It is only hidden if you haven’t bothered to look.”
Gum leaves crunch beneath our feet as we walk the edge of the small creek, winding through the town’s central park. A large, mosaic fountain battles for an atmosphere of tranquillity against the chaos of the nearby playground and the traffic of the main street. Like most born-and-bred South Australians, I am no stranger to Hahndorf’s quaint, German inspired streets. It is a town well beloved for its novelty stores and historic cottages. The shining star of many day trips from the city. But standing here, before a creek that has been seen and dismissed by most passers-by, I wonder if it is fair to place the responsibility of acknowledging the lands history on the individual visitor; especially in a town where one half of its past has been sensationalised into a marketing identity.
The waterway that lays before us, half hidden behind the bush scrub, is called ‘Bukartilla’. This means ‘women’s swimming hole’, or ‘place to learn to swim’ to the Peramangk people, Hahndorf’s Indigenous landowners. It is one of three Bukartilla in town, all of which hold cultural significance to the Peramangk because they were once meeting places, campsites, and places to teach their children to swim.
Today, the first of these Bukartilla can be found at Hahndorf Creek, where the waterway joins the Onkaparinga River. The second borders the edge of the Carl Nitschke car park, hidden behind overgrown bush and foliage, while the third lays in plain sight in the heart of town. It would be easy to look at the lack of reverence paid to these sites of Aboriginal cultural significance and feel that they have been dismissed. Locals, however, are adamant that the depth of Hahndorf’s dual history is not only valued, but that it remains central to the town’s identity. Standing before the creek, Hope tells me “this is the heart of it all.” She gestures as if to encompass a space bigger than she can articulate. “This is the heart of South Australian culture… Let me show you.”
Having grown up in the area, Hope shares that Hahndorf is pitched to the tourism industry has a hub of German novelties, but the weaving of three cultural influences comprises the fabric of her hometown. Three intertwined cultures that can be found across South Australia as surely as they can be spotted among the stone cottages of the main street.
These cultures can be defined as follows:
1. German: This is the most well-known and celebrated culture in Hahndorf. The tightly packed streets are lined with fudge stores, novelty Christmas shops, and countless cafes selling bee sting cake and hot pretzels. Each year, thousands of people visit Hahndorf in the hopes of experiencing a taste of Europe. But this German influence is not exclusive to the town. German settlers began taking land across South Australia in 1836. They came from various Prussian provinces and first settled on the banks of the River Torrens, before settlers branched out to build the towns that would become Hahndorf, Lobethal, and Bethany in the Barossa Valley. As the settlers sent word of their success home, a migration wave began. Now, German influence can be felt across the state. The settlers were largely farm workers and are credited for the origins of South Australia’s wine industry, a core piece of the state’s modern identity. Traditional German beverages or dishes, like Schnitzel, have been adopted and modified throughout the country to the point that many Australians may not differentiate between German or Australian meals.
2. Modern Aussie: This is a sense of lifestyle and social interaction. South Australians are a relaxed people who enjoy pub culture and mateship. Hahndorf embraces the laid-back nature of the South Australian people. There are pubs and cafes open all day, parks and countless seating areas. It is a town designed for the leisurely stroll. Long lunches with family and friends are encouraged, strangers acknowledge each other on the street with a nod and a ‘how ya going’. Australians are often described as ‘easy-going’, an attribute that Hahndorf has turned into a culture in-and-of itself.
3. Indigenous: Indigenous cultures are the heart of South Australia’s foundation. There are numerous Aboriginal communities across the state whose histories, traditions, and stories have existed on this land longer than any other living culture. Hahndorf is built upon Peramangk land the influences of their culture can been seen in beloved locations, such as The Aboriginal Arthouse and The Tineriba Tribal Gallery. Other businesses, such as Hahndorf Academy, also celebrate the Peramangk’s connection to the land, while also supporting Indigenous artists.
“There is an imbalance,” admits Hope, “between how German and Indigenous cultures are represented here. Maybe that’s marketing. Maybe it’s thought better for tourism. I think we all want to come see a slice of Europe, being so far away, but there’s a larger issue at play here; one seen across the state.” But it’s an issue, she persists, that Hahndorf is taking steps towards rectifying, and it can be seen in our first stop in town.
Hahndorf Academy
As we step off of the main street, through the archway of the great stone building, Hope’s excitement is palpable. Hardwood floors creak beneath our feet, echoing along the high ceilings. The giftshop at the forefront of the Academy houses ceramics, jewellery and the unique works of independent artists. “This is just one example of a cross-section between cultures in Hahndorf,” says Hope. “The history of the town and Lutheran settlers is here. There are stories and artefacts from Peramangk people… Oh! There are these incredible art exhibitions.”
I am ushered excitedly into a large, bright space at the far end of the giftshop. The work of Cedric Varcoe, a Narangga-Ramindjeri and Ngarrindjeri artist, lines the walls. An exhibition booklet sits before a stunning painting of swirling blues, greens and purples, titled “Fresh Water Dreaming - Ngarrindjeri ka:wi Ruwe Dreaming”. Varcoe’s opening quote states, “Through art I want people to look through our eyes when they visit these places.” Varcoe’s love for the land and Ngarrindjeri stories shimmers throughout the exhibition. It is a vibrant reminder consider Indigenous perspectives and influences when exploring their lands, a reminder that Hahndorf is championing in the heart of town.
As we traverse the museum attached to the galley, the dual cultures celebrated by the academy becomes apparent. This space is dedicated to the journey of Lutheran settlers as they came to South Australia in the search for religious freedom. A collection of artefacts and historic texts details the settler’s journey as they built the town and the academy, a building that had lived many lives. The academy was opened in 1857 by Traugott Wilhelm Boehm to offer an English and German education, before becoming boarding school, a Lutheran college and seminary, and then a hospital and nursing home. Between 1938-1959, it was the headquarters for local military offices during World War II, before going on to be used for housing flats, a recreation centre and, eventually, becoming the museum and galley known today.
The Hahndorf Inn
For lunch, we stop before a gorgeous stone façade, sheltered by a green balcony. Quaint German music flows from the entryway. Beams decorate the high ceilings and deep wood tables fill the space. Deep belly laughs echo over the bar. European influences are everywhere, but the culture within the space feels as familiar and comfortable as any Aussie pub. We are shown to our table with a warm smile, and passed menus that toe the lines of German, Italian, and British. While we consider the merits of Penne Pasta vs Bratwurst, I wonder what makes this restaurant stand out on Hope’s tour of highlights. “It’s all in the atmosphere,” she says. “It’s in the people.”
“If you were to walk into any pub restaurant in Adelaide or your hometown it would feel just like this. We are surrounded by German culture, but it doesn’t matter what is on the menu. You can come here – you can come to any pub in Hahndorf – and know you’re going to get that Aussie feel. It’s just... it’s homey.”
It is easy to understand what she means while sitting here. There is a comfortable air of camaraderie. You could walk up to the bar and have a laugh. You could walk past someone between tables are share an easy ‘G’day’. You could lounge here, in the middle of the day with a circle of friends and a round of beers. It is German but it is Australian. It is a space where those terms exist synonymously.
The Tineriba Tribal Gallery
The final stop on our walking tour showcases some of the best artifacts from Indigenous culture. Lining the walls of The Tineriba Tribal Gallery are artworks, gemstones, vases and stunning artefacts from across Australia. This gallery is the product of a lifetime of collecting by Peter Manual. The business first opened unofficially in 1980 and has since become the longest running commercial Aboriginal Art Gallery in Australia. Over its lifetime, Tineriba has been trusted to look after the accession of Aboriginal painting from regions all around Australia, and also developed a strong relationship with Papua New Guinea. As we wind our way through the displays, I consider that this is one of the most unique locations to see in Hahndorf. For a town that wears its German roots like a brand identity, Tineriba Tribal Gallery is like stepping into a different world. It is a showcase of Australian history and artwork, and a beautiful reminder of the cultures that have existed across this land for thousands of years.
I understand Hope’s earlier statement regarding Hahndorf’s dual history, “It is only hidden if you haven’t bothered to look.” Indigenous culture is in the arthouses and the galleries, and the waterways that run through the town. It is transcribed on the walls alongside the journey of Lutheran settlers. It has not been packed up and tucked away, but it is overshadowed. While European culture is a loud celebration, echoed down the main street, its Indigenous counterpart is a calm whisper trailing in its wake. This is as true in Hahndorf as it is across South Australia, proving, once again, that Hahndorf represents the same balance of cultures we see across the state – even in the ways where that balance falls short.
STAY
Hahndorf is only 30 minutes from Adelaide, meaning most visitors opt for a day trip, but if you are looking for a weekend getaway or want to make the most of your time in the Adelaide Hills, The Haus Group offer beautiful studio apartments or luxury lodges right on the main street, starting at $150 per night.
TOUR
Hahndorf Walking Tours offer numerous tours to suit your interests. Enjoy the classic Hufendorf walking tour that offers an in-depth exploration of the village, an after dark walking tour and dinner experience, or the popular Strassendorf walking tour where visitors are able to bake their own apple strudel.
DON’T MISS
The Aboriginal Arthouse homes a gorgeous collection of Indigenous artworks from across Australia. The Arthouse, located on the main street, works directly with 35 Indigenous artists from Central and Western Australia. It is a great stop along your afternoon stroll, and the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir while supporting Australian artists.
